Messages and Online Forum Q&A

Re: Installing concrete pavers

From: info@builderswebsource.com
Category: Concrete
Date: 11 Jan 2000
Time: 23:03:34
Remote Name: 63.198.181.43

Comments

Dear Julie and Shon:

The use of concrete pavers for a driveway application is excellent. It sounds like in your case, however, you simply want to "extend" the width of the driveway by about a foot.

Depending on whether or not you plan to drive on the pavers may impact how you install them. However, let's assume that these pavers could be subject to full loading conditions from a vehicle.

Generally, your existing concrete driveway is about 3.5-4" thick plus some baserock and/or sand underneath. To put in the pavers, you should excavate to a depth of 10-12" in the of interest and move it out of the way. Then, fully tamp or compact the base of the excavated area to make sure there is no chance of future settlement. If you want to take an extra precaution, lay a piece of filter fabric over the excavated base after you've compacted it. This will help to prevent the baserock (which you'll add next) from pressing into the soil over time. Then, in small lifts of a few inches at a time, add compacted baserock fill and compact or tamp as you go....watering slightly with a hose. Some building material supply houses have a baserock fill that includes finely recycled concrete ...which, when wetted and compacted again, rehydrates and becomes almost as hard as concrete.

Now, let's suppose that your pavers are 2.5" thick. You'll want about 1" of clean washed sand underneath the pavers to "cushion" them. Before you add the sand over the compacted baserock, you'll need to set a border along the side to support the pavers and prevent them from shifting. You can do this out of straight 2x4's or 2x6's (either pressure treated Douglas Fir or Redwood)...or take advantage of subterranean black plastic borders made especially for pavers. The borders provide a side footing which is anchored into the ground with large spikes. If you use wood borders, you must also use wooden stakes to keep the border in place. Put the stakes on the outside of the area so they don't interfere with the pavers later.

Once you've set the edge in place, use a home-made screed cut to size to level the sand base such that the pavers are about 1/4" above the level of the existing driveway. Be sure to use damp sand and tamp gently with a wooden float to compress it.

As you lay your pavers in whichever pattern you choose, be sure to keep a straight line. You can use a rubber mallet to tap the pavers into place and ensure a snug fit. If your border is curved, you may have to sawcut the pavers to achieve a radius depending on the shape.

Once all the pavers are installed, run a flat plate vibrator over top of the pavers. The vibration forces sand up into the gaps between the pavers and locks them into place. The process of vibrating also causes the pavers to drop about a 1/4" until the tops are level with the existing concrete. Be sure not to "over vibrate", or else the pavers could sink below the concrete surface.

After you're done vibrating, take fresh washed fine sand and sweep it across the surface of the pavers, filling in any remaining gaps. This is one of the most satisfying parts...seeing the finished product come to life.

Then, backfill any remaining excavated areas with leftover soil, bringing the soil or flower bed to about a half inch below the surface of the pavers. This helps to prevent water and dirt from running off onto the pavers.

Most building materials suppliers have small instruction guides on installing pavers and you will discover the process to be essentially as described. The key trick for do-it-yourself installations is having the right equipment, such as compacters and vibrators.

If you don't have access to this equipment, you'll have to do the best you can and make adjustments accordingly.

As with any project, the preparation is half the battle and must be done properly, otherwise you'll be unhappy with your results. I've seen many homeowners install pavers without the right equipment...and they look crooked and wavy.

If your area is particularly large, you might decide to have an expert do it who has all the right equipment....and can haul away the soil you no longer need.

Good luck!

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